Edible Ireland

Potato, Cheddar and Rosemary Bread

by Kristin on June 6, 2012

All the food served at the Inishfood festival in Donegal last month was memorable, from one perfect oyster on the beach to a tasting menu with so many courses I lost count, but one of my favourite things was a small loaf of bread served at lunch, still warm from the oven.

Thibault Peigne is a master artisan baker trained in Germany, now living in Ireland, and he talked that day about the art of bread. He also made a range of breads on site that morning, from fresh baguettes to Italian sourdough, but the one I liked best was his potato, cheddar and rosemary bread, with its nod to Ireland with the inclusion of potatoes. As soon as I had Thibault’s version at Inishfood, I knew I wanted to try making it at home.

Surprisingly, potato bread like this doesn’t seem to be traditional in Ireland — the only recipes I found were for things like boxty and farls. Thibault’s bread was based on a fermented sourdough and poolish, but since I have yet to make my own sourdough starter, I made a more basic loaf instead. The next time you have a few scoops of mashed potato left over — or the next time you’re making mash, make a little extra — give this bread a try.

Potato, Cheddar and Rosemary Bread
adapted from How To Be A Domestic Goddess by Nigella Lawson

Makes 2 loaves

The recipe calls for 300 g mashed potatoes, which for me was the equivalent of 2 large potatoes that weighed 600 g (1 1/4 lb) before I peeled and cooked them. If grated, the cheddar melts into the bread, but it still imparts flavour and helps to soften the crumb. If you want the cheese to be a bit more upfront in the bread, try cubing it instead. The basic recipe is open to variations — try chives instead of rosemary; potato, bacon and scallion; or potato and caraway seed.

600 g to 800 g (5 to 6 1/2 cups) strong white flour
300 g (11 oz) mashed potatoes
150 g (1 1/2 cups) mature cheddar, grated or cubed
1 tablespoon salt
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh rosemary
1 x 7 g sachet fast action yeast
1 tablespoon Greek yoghurt
300 ml (1 1/4 cups) warm water

Place 600 g of the flour, the mashed potatoes, cheddar, salt, rosemary and yeast in a large bowl and mix to combine. Add the yoghurt, then slowly stir in the water until it starts to form a workable dough. Knead on a floured work surface or in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment for about 10 minutes, adding more flour if you need it. It should be a slightly damp, sticky, very heavy dough. Form into a ball and place in a large, lightly oiled bowl. Turn the dough to coat it all in the oil, then cover the bowl with clingfilm and leave to rise in a warm, draught-free place for about 1 hour, until it has doubled in size.

Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F) and line 2 loaf tins or 2 baking trays with parchment paper.

Punch down the dough and knead for a minute or two and form into a loaf (if using loaf tins) or a round (if using baking trays). Place the dough in the tins or on the trays and cover loosely with a clean tea towel. Allow to rise again for about 3o minutes, until doubled in size again. Place in the oven for 20 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 190°C (375°F) and cook for 10 minutes more, or until it’s cooked through and the base sounds hollow when it’s tapped. Allow the loaves to cool on a rack before slicing.

{ 13 comments }

Postcards from Ireland #4

by Kristin on June 1, 2012

MOO!

You can see more of my photos on Instagram as edibleireland.

{ 2 comments }

Postcards from Ireland #3

by Kristin on May 25, 2012

The 300-year-old hearth in the kitchen at Linsfort Castle B&B, Inishowen, County Donegal

You can see more of my photos on Instagram as edibleireland.

{ 4 comments }

Inishfood 2012

by Kristin on May 22, 2012

Knowledge, moderation and interdependency — the three pillars of pleasure in food, according to Ed Hick at his talk at this past weekend’s Inishfood festival in County Donegal. He could well have been talking about the foundations of the success of the festival itself.

Knowledge means knowing the name of the person you’re buying your food from or talking about your food with. It’s tied into the idea of provenance, which we’re valuing more and more these days. At Inishfood, the knowledge of who provided every bite of your food — from the beef, beer and bread, to the seafood and salad, to Darren’s pizzas and Sally’s sea grass and lemon butter, even down to who roasted the coffee beans just the week before — is central to the pleasure taken in it.

Moderation is the opposite of gluttony, which actually lessens flavour and pleasure. Think about how much more you enjoy your first bite of a rich dessert compared to your last. In unromantic economic terms, it’s called utility and refers to the threshold of satisfaction. Less really is more — the less of something you have, the more you enjoy it. It’s why seasonal food is special and pleasurable — food that’s available year round becomes debased and unremarkable. At Inishfood, the tasting menu on Saturday night was ten courses, but each course was only a few bites, meant to be mindfully savoured and lingered over.

Interdependency refers to the social aspect of eating. Food, conversation, music and ambiance are all shared, and it’s that interdependent act of sharing that makes an experience special. Or to put it another way, think of it as having the craic — that unique aspect of Irish culture that means a lively atmosphere and good conversation. At Inishfood, all the tables in the restaurant are pushed together for people to be seated in big groups and food is brought out on platters to be passed around and served family style, which means you can’t help but engage with the people around you. At Inishfood, the craic is mighty.

Sharing was another word that was used a lot at Inishfood — sharing skills, knowledge, recipes or even the wheel of three-year-old Coolea cheese that Seamus Sheridan brought down to the beach for Sunday’s foraging talk and impromptu picnic. At the end of the day, food is most meaningful when it’s shared, which is what Inishfood is all about.

Harrys Bar and Restaurant
Bridgend
Inishowen
County Donegal
+353 (0)74 936 8544
www.harrys.ie
@harrysdonal
@Inishfood

{ 13 comments }

Postcards from Ireland #2

by Kristin on May 18, 2012

Cartlan’s thatched pub in Kingscourt, County Cavan

You can see more of my photos on Instagram as edibleireland.

{ 2 comments }

Orange and Cardamom Jelly with Candied Pistachios

by Kristin on May 14, 2012

It’s mid-May, but the weather feels more like a blustery March. It’s enough to make me start despairing that summer will pass us by yet again, but for now I’m still holding out hope that warmer weather is just around the corner. But if we can’t have warm sunshine in reality, we can at least bring it to our table with some citrus and a sunny dessert like this.

I met a friend and her newborn baby for lunch recently at The Kitchen in Drogheda. Located on the quays with a view of the Boyne River, the room is nice and bright and the menu changes weekly. They were doing a brisk lunchtime trade on the Friday we were there (get the lamb koftas if they’re on the menu!) and the orange and cardamom jelly caught my eye when it was time to think about dessert. To be honest I couldn’t taste the cardamom in it, but I loved the sound of the flavour combination and wanted to experiment with it in my own kitchen.

Cardamom seems to be a trendy spice right now, but it does lend these jellies, normally a kiddie favourite, a more grown-up dimension. These jellies would be a lovely palate-cleansing finish to a summer dinner party — if summer ever comes.

Orange and Cardamom Jelly with Candied Pistachios

Serves 4 to 6

Any jelly is a great make-ahead dessert and this one’s no exception, including the candied pistachios. Any leftover nuts could be sprinkled on ice cream or added to your breakfast granola. Double check the instructions on your packet of gelatine to make sure 1 sachet is enough to set 500 ml (2 cups) of liquid. I used 6 cardamom pods when I made this and the jelly had a pronounced cardamom flavour — I think 5 pods might be a happy medium, but use 4 if you want a more subtle hint of spice.

for the orange and cardamom jelly:
500 ml (2 cups) freshly squeezed orange juice (4 to 6 oranges)
50 g (1/3 cup) icing sugar
4 to 6 cardamom pods, depending on how strong you want the flavour to be
1 x 13 g sachet of powdered gelatine
Greek or natural yoghurt, to serve

for the candied pistachios:
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 tablespoon water
pinch of cinnamon
pinch of sea salt
100 g (1 cup) shelled unsalted pistachios

To make the jellies, add the orange juice to a non-reactive pot and whisk in the icing sugar. Crush the cardamom pods with the flat of a knife or with a pestle and mortar to release the seeds, then add them to the pot, pods and all. Bring the orange juice mixture to a boil, then immediately remove it from the heat. Cover the pot and set it aside for at least 15 minutes or up to half an hour to allow the flavour of the cardamom to infuse the juice. Strain the mixture into a bowl through a fine sieve when it’s had its time and taste it, adding more icing sugar if you think it needs it.

Boil a little water (about 50 ml / 1/4 cup) and pour it into a mug, then sprinkle the gelatine over. Whisk until the gelatine dissolves, then add it to the strained orange juice. Pour the jelly mixture into 4 to 6 jelly moulds, ramekins, glasses, jars, etc. and place in the fridge to set, which will take at least a few hours.

To make the candied pistachios, preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F) and line a baking tray with parchment paper. Stir the brown sugar, water, cinnamon and salt together in a small pot over a medium heat, until the sugar dissolves. Add in the pistachios and stir to coat them in the sugar mixture, then spread them out on the lined baking tray. Bake for about 10 minutes. Allow the nuts to cool and harden on the tray, then roughly chop them.

Garnish each serving of jelly with a dollop of yoghurt and sprinkle over some candied pistachios.

{ 4 comments }

Postcards from Ireland #1

by Kristin on May 11, 2012

Under the old chestnut tree at Dun a Rí forest in County Cavan.

You can see more of my photos on Instagram as edibleireland.

{ 2 comments }

Rhubarb and Rose Compote

by Kristin on May 9, 2012

I was scrolling through my Instagram feed last week and saw a photo from New York City of bunches of rhubarb piled high at a farmers’ market. ‘Rhubarb is at the Greenmarket!’ the caption read. ‘Just one stall is selling it. Get here quick before it sells out.’ Commenters on the photo were rushing over to get some, with one eventually saying, ‘I got the last bunch!’

After a long, dark winter, rhubarb is one of the first things to come back to life in the garden. While people in Manhattan might be dropping everything to get their hands on some, it’s old news in Ireland by now — it’s been in the markets since February. When I see it in the shops again, I like to make a quick and easy compote* before the inevitable crumbles, tarts or cake. The rose water makes this compote heady and exotic and is a nice change from the usual pairings with ginger or citrus. I think the rhubarb and rose combination would also make a gorgeous jam.

This compote is endlessly versatile. Spoon it over granola and yoghurt for breakfast or vanilla ice cream for dessert, serve it alongside a plain panna cotta or shortbread, fold it into whipped cream to make a fool or even strain it and use the syrup for an elegant rhubarb and rose Bellini. If you want to brighten it up a little, try adding a squeeze of lime juice. No matter what you do with it, enjoy one of the first tastes of spring.

*Love compote? Try this gooseberry and elderflower compote when the berries and flowers are in season soon.

Rhubarb and Rose Compote

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) rhubarb
75 g (1/3 cup) sugar
2 tablespoons rose water

Top and tail the rhubarb and cut it into 3 cm (1 inch) pieces. Place the rhubarb, sugar and rose water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over a medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes, until the rhubarb is tender. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. This will keep in the fridge for 1 week stored in an airtight container.

{ 5 comments }

Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese

by Kristin on April 26, 2012

Listening to John Hempenstall talk about his cheese is an education. Standing amongst the stainless steel tanks in the factory he designed and built himself at Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese and hearing him explain the delicate balance of enzymes, salt, acid and moisture content, he seems more alchemist than mere cheese maker. You also quickly get the sense that like anyone who’s passionate about what they do, John could happily talk about these things until his cows come home.

Milk is a live product, John explains, so the flavour of his cheese varies throughout the year, as opposed to a commercial product. His farm is located between the Croghan Mountains and the Irish Sea, so the closeness to the sea also lends his cheeses a distinctive taste.

All the cheese at Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese is made with milk from their own 70-strong herd of Friesian cows. Coming from generations of blacksmiths, John’s father bought the farm when John was born so that he’d have something to hand down, and in the same vein, John started making cheese not only to supplement his farm income, but so that he’d have something to pass on to his own children. It’s now a family business, with his daughter and a nephew working with him.

Back in 2005 John saw that there was a niche opportunity for a blue cheese in the Irish market, which led to him developing his award-winning flagship cheese, Wicklow Blue. Their second cheese was Wicklow Baun, a rich, double cream brie-like cheese.

The Hempenstalls are always trying to improve and every year they try something new, which led them to make a range of Wicklow Gold cheddars: plain, tomato and herb, and basil and garlic as well as the more unusual nettle and chive and, my favourite, seaweed, made with dillisk from the west of Ireland.

Their initial local success quickly became national, which means you can now find Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese in good shops, delis, farmers’ markets and restaurants around Ireland as well as the local Druids Glen hotel. The Blue and Baun cheeses are sold as small individual rounds, which makes them perfect for including on an Irish farmhouse cheese board, while the more unusual cheddars would liven up a ploughman’s plate. They’re all well worth seeking out, and I’ll be keeping an eye out to see what new cheese they come up with next.

Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese
Curranstown
Arklow
County Wicklow
Tel: +353 (0)40 291 713
www.wicklowfarmhousecheese.ie

{ 4 comments }

Catherine Fulvio at Druids Glen

by Kristin on April 10, 2012

Driving south to Wicklow, when the M50 downshifts into the N11 and you leave the city sprawl behind, there’s an invisible border when you pass through the Glen of the Downs and you suddenly feel as if you’re a million miles away from it all. Not too far from that line is Druids Glen, nestled between the Irish Sea and the Wicklow Mountains in an idyllic oasis that you’d never guess is only half an hour’s drive from Dublin.

Druids Glen is famous for its golf courses (called ‘the Augusta of Europe’ and ‘nature’s gift to golf’), but I’d been lured down by an invitation to spend a Friday evening tasting Porterhouse craft beers with their master brewer, Peter Mosley, sampling their new menu and touring the Hempenstall family’s Wicklow Farmhouse Cheese operations the next day.

Local celebrity chef Catherine Fulvio has worked with the hotel’s head chef, Dheeraj Ramgoolam, to create some signature dishes for the Druids Brasserie featuring some of the best of Irish produce. On the night I ate there, this included a paper-thin aged Kildare Angus beef carpaccio with Desmond cheese, Wicklow cannon of lamb with Dunlavin black pudding and a truffle mash, and Catherine’s own recipe for a refreshing passion fruit and orange tart. They’ve also recently launched a new wedding package at the hotel featuring an Italian menu that Catherine has designed, bringing a taste of the Mediterranean to the Wicklow countryside.

For more casual options, there’s also classic bar food on offer at The Thirteenth bar in the hotel — with a Guinness tap where you can pull your own pint! — as well as an a la carte menu in the atmospheric 400-year-old Woodstock House, which is now the clubhouse.

Golf isn’t my game — I’ve never so much as held a club — but I’d packed my walking shoes. If you misread the map, like I did, you can leave the grounds and head out to the narrow country lanes with views of the sea and the Sugar Loaf mountain, where fields of rapeseed were in bloom and spring lambs were in the fields. Otherwise, there are walking/jogging trails that loop around the edge of the pretty parkland golf course, ending in the clubhouse — just keep an eye out for golfers teeing off — perfect for walking off the hotel’s big breakfast.

Druids Glen is yet another hotel that’s moving food centre stage by showcasing local food on their menus, making it a win-win for the artisan suppliers as well as the guests and making a meal there something special.

Druids Glen Resort
Newtownmountkennedy
County Wicklow
Tel: +353 (0)1 287 0800
www.druidsglenresort.com
@druidsglenhotel

I was a guest of Host PR and Druids Glen Resort for their Partners Evening. Photos have been used courtesy of Host PR. Many thanks to Gillian and Tim of Host PR and Aisling and Richard from Druids Glen Resort for a wonderful stay.